If you have a tile countertop that reminds you of ancient Greece rather than a room in the 21st century, it may be time for replacement.

The good thing is, when it comes to tile, there are a variety of tile sizes, colors, patterns and trim pieces to choose from. And don’t forget -- grout color and grout width, which are additional variables that can change the appearance of just about any tile project.

In the past, installing tile was most often left to a tile setter. The advent of pre-fabricated mortar board and the profusion of "how-to" information, like this column (thank you very much), have made tile installation by the do-it-yourselfer far more feasible and common.

To tile a countertop, start by removing the existing built-ins (i.e. cooktop, faucet, sink, etc.) and the old countertop. Here’s how:

• Turn off the hot and cold water valves beneath the sink (or shut off the gas or turn off the electricity).
• Disconnect the water supply lines and the sink drain (or the gas or electric lines).
• With all built-ins removed, use a hammer and pry bar to get rid of the old countertop. Keep in mind that some countertops may be attached to the cabinet with screws from the underside.

NOTE: Be sure to wear protective clothing and eye goggles to avoid injury.

Once the demolition phase is completed, you're ready to begin your new installation by first measuring, cutting and installing a new plywood sub-top (known in the trades as the rough top). We use 3/4 inch exterior grade plywood. Mortar or mortar board lay on this plywood platform.

• Align the new plywood rough-top evenly with the front edge of the cabinet.
• Pre-drill the holes using an 1/8 inch drill bit and then use 1 5/8" drywall screws to attach the plywood top to the cabinet at all edges (about 6- to 8-inches apart).
• Next, use the manufacturer’s template that comes with the sink and/or appliance to mark its cut out size and location.
• Use a jigsaw to make the actual cutout.
• Finally, apply a layer of 15-lb. building paper over the plywood top, securing it with a few staples.

The next step for a professional would be to add chicken wire and float out a bed of mortar. For the do-it-yourselfer, pre-fabricated cement backer board makes the job easier. Measure the backer board to fit precisely over the plywood rough top. The backer board, which is 1/2" thick can be cut with a sharp razor knife or by using a circular saw with a masonry blade. If you opt to use the saw, be sure to wear a breathing mask since you will encounter an enormous cloud of dust. Here’s how:

• Prior to permanently fastening the backer board, lay it atop of the rough top, and scribe from below, any cut-out that were made in the plywood for a sink or appliance.
• Remove the scribed backer board and use a jigsaw to make the matching cut-outs.
• Secure the mortar board to the plywood substrate using 1" galvanized roofing nails or 1" bugle-head drywall screws.
• Use the special mesh tape and joint compound sold with the backer board to finish the joints.
• The nail or screw heads should also be dabbed with a bit of the joint compound. Allow everything to dry overnight.

Begin the tiling process by laying out the tile. Here’s how:

• An outside corner trim piece is an easy place to start. You may want to start by centering the pieces around the sink or an appliance.
• Irregular pieces should be marked and cut with a tile cutter, which can be rented for about $45 a day.
• Lay the tile out with the appropriate-size rubber spacers and mark and cut each piece as necessary. Rubber tile spacers help to keep the joints aligned and uniform in width. Butt tiles together for thin joints.

The most challenging pieces to fit will be those that surround the openings for sinks and appliances. In addition to the tile cutter, you may find that using a pair of tile nippers will help to make custom cuts far easier.

Once all of the pieces have been pre-cut and removed from the work surface you’re ready to lay tile. Here’s what we do:

• Use a 1/8" notched trowel to apply the mortar-adhesive to the backer board.
• With a margin trowel or butter trowel spread a small amount of mortar-adhesive onto the back side of a piece of tile.
• Place the tile, starting with the trim pieces followed by the field tile, being sure to use spacers between each piece if desired.

Be careful to lay tiles in straight lines by sighting down the joint rows. The other trick is to make sure that tiles are evenly laid insuring that top will be as smooth as silk.

The tile splash can be applied directly to the wall by using a small amount of mortar with each piece. Allow the tile adhesive to set up for about 24 hours and then apply the grout. If the joints are less than 1/8", use unsanded grout. If 1/8" or larger, use sanded. Mix the grout according to the directions and apply it with a rubber grout float working in a diagonal direction. Excess grout should be removed with a damp sponge. Apply an acrylic or silicone-based tile and grout sealer to the entire tile and grout surface after the grout has cured for a couple of weeks.

Finish the job by installing a new self-rimming sink and or your appliances. Reconnect the water supply lines and pipes and/or gas line and wiring.