Ever need an electrical outlet and the search was like looking for a needle in a haystack? Or, maybe you’re a little tired of stringing unsightly extension cords from wall to wall or room to room? If this sounds familiar, chances are you could use an additional electric outlet or two.

Installing an electrical outlet can be well worth the energy. And it isn't terribly complicated as long as you have either an attic or a basement (or crawlspace) where new wires can be safely concealed. Remember, working with electricity is not like working with plumbing. If things don't go exactly as planned when doing a little plumbing work, the worst that can happen is a little leak. On the other hand, even a little carelessness when it comes to electrical work can result in shocking results. So, be sure to use extreme caution when working with electricity and turn off the power to the areas where you will be working.

NOTE: Once you have turned the power of tape your service panel closed and add a note to it the lets everyone know what you are doing. This simple protection is worth your life.

Start this project with a trip to the home improvement center or hardware store for a few supplies. You'll need a single-gang electrical cut-in box (ask for it just that way – the store person will know exactly what you need), a small roll of 12/2 Romex electrical wire with ground, a duplex electrical outlet and cover plate, a handful of Romex staples, two junction boxes with covers, and a few wire connectors.

The cut-in box is a plastic or metal box which is specifically designed for after-the-fact installation. It does not require attachment to any solid framing. Instead, it comes equipped with clips or other compression toggles that rely upon the plaster or wallboard that surrounds the box for stability.

First, identify the approximate area where you want the new outlet to be located. Unless this outlet is to be a special height, measure the distance of other outlets in the room and insure that the one that you are installing will correspond. The cut-in box should be located at least 1 1/2" from the nearest stud in order for the attachment or toggle clips to work properly. Use a stud-finder to assist in clearing the studs.

Once you have identified the location for the installation of the box, place the face of the cut-in box against the face of the wall and use it as a pattern by using a pencil to scribe a line around the entire perimeter of the box. Use a razor knife to score the surface of the plaster or wallboard. This will help to maintain the integrity of the surrounding material by preventing chipping and cracking.

Next, using a drill and small bit (about 3/8"), drill a small hole in one of the four corners. Then, using a reciprocating saw with a fine tooth blade (or a pointed sheetrock saw), proceed to cut along the entire line previously made with your pencil. Use the razor knife to clean up the corners and any irregular areas. Check the fit by attempting to insert the cut-in box. A little fine-tuning of the opening may be required to achieve a perfect fit.

Prior to permanently installing the cut-in box you will want to run your wire. The attic is a good place to start. Locate the point on the top of the wall that aligns with the hole created for the cut-in box. Again, using a drill with about a 9/16" auger bit, drill a hole through the top of the wall. Next, use a heavy piece of string with a fishing sinker or nut tied to one end to fish the string from the top of the wall down to the hole you made. Remove the nut, tie the new electric wire and the string together and pull all of the wire through the hole in the wall leaving about 18" of excess at the location where the new outlet is to be installed. If the wall is insulated then you will need an electrician’s fish tape. This is a spring steel tool that is used for “fishing” wires into wall cavities. Not usually necessary for most interior walls.

Staple the wire to the top of the wall within four inches of the hole and then again at intervals of about every four feet until you have reached the location where the power panel exists. Connecting a new wire into a power panel is slightly complicated and may require the assistance of an electrician. In a power panel the black wire is connected to an unused fuse location or to a new breaker. The white wire is connected to the neutral buss (where all of the other white wires connect). And the bare ground wire connects to the ground buss (where all of the other bare wires connect). Before working on the power panel, make absolutely sure that the main power switch is off. For more details pick up a copy of Wiring Simplified, by H.P. Richter and W.C. Schwan for about $15.00 – you can't go wrong.

Back at the new plug location, using a screwdriver, remove the knock-out plug at the top rear of the cut-in box and feed the wire into the back of the box and out through the front. Secure the wire with the clamp provided in the box or use the appropriate Romex box connector if none is provided. Next insert the cut-in box into the wall opening and make the appropriate connections to permanently secure the box. Simply hold the box in place and tighten two Philips head screws until the box feels secure.

Use the razor knife to score the Romex sheathing and remove it to within an inch or so of where the wire is clamped in the back of the box. Then, with a pair of electrical wire strippers, clip the 3 wires to approximately 12" long. Attach the bare ground wire to the green screw provided on the box and then to the new outlet. After stripping about 3/4" of the sheathing from the ends of the black and white wires, attach them to the receptacle. Most modern outlets have friction openings into which the bare wire can be inserted, thereby not requiring the use of screws. Close inspection will reveal which hole is for the white wire. Typically the ground screw and the white wire are connected to one side of the receptacle and the black wire by itself to the other side.

After all wires have been properly connected, attach the outlet to the cut-in box with the screws provided. Complete the installation of the outlet by installing the cover plate. Be careful not to tighten the screw too tightly, doing so might crack the cover plate.

Finally, turn the power back on and test your work with a three pronged electrical outlet tester to make sure all connections have been made properly. Such test devices sell for under $30.