In an earlier article, we mentioned that a sticking door could easily be repaired by planing the spot where a rub was occurring.

Although we still feel that doors that rub can be quickly fixed with a small block plane or a pad sander, the sticking condition eventually is likely to reverse itself as winter rains return. The tight joint that currently exists between the door and frame will widen. So, be careful not to overdo the removal of what will again become precious and needed door material. Simply put, plane or sand sparingly.

Before beginning any type of repair, check the hinges to be sure the problem isn't loose hinge screws. A loose top hinge will allow the weight of the door to fall against the opposite side of the door frame—resulting in an annoying rub that is not unlike one caused by a door that has shifted because of house movement.

An alternative to sanding or planing

There is an option to sanding or planing when only a slight rub exists. Slightly—and permanently—move the door frame at the point where the rub is occurring. This increases the distance between the door and the frame. This technique is a common one, and takes only seconds to perform. It could take you longer to read this article than to make the repair. This repair is most successful when only a moderate rub exists between the door and the door frame. This is because it is generally difficult to move the frame more than a sixteenth- to an eighth of an inch.

You'll need a hammer, a box nail, a fat nail punch and a small block of wood. Any hammer will do. We usually use a 10- to 16-ounce finish hammer. We use 16d sinkers, but any size between 8d and 16d will work. A short piece of 2x4 or a piece of 2x2 works well as the block of wood, although any smooth piece of wood will do. Rough-sawn wood should not be used. It will leave an irregular pattern in the door frame.

• First, locate the rub and drive the nail through the face of the door frame and into the adjacent stud.
• Don't hammer the nail all the way in. Use the punch to finish the job to prevent hammer marks in the door frame. At this point you might already have completed the repair. Often, by simply driving a box nail into the door frame, it moves just enough to create all the clearance you will need.
• If the door still rubs, countersink the nail with another blow of the hammer, and test to see if you have clearance.
• Use the block of wood and the hammer to force the frame to move a bit more. Place the block on the frame and strike it firmly with the hammer. The block allows you to strike a forceful blow without damage to the frame.
• Make sure the nail is still countersunk. If it's not, use the punch again so that there will be a bit of room for putty.
• Paint the spot with a cotton swab, and let dry.

This repair is sometimes more effective when it also is performed on the hinge side. Rather than moving the frame only at the side where the door is rubbing, the frame can be moved at the hinge side as well. Moving both door frames can result in a wider gap.

Other things, too, can cause a door to rub. Often the weight of the door is just enough to pull the top hinge and the door frame away from the house frame. Besides the rub at the top of the hardware side of the door, this condition is most evident when the gap at the top of the door is wider at the hardware side than it is at the hinge side. In this case, the nail trick should be used to push the hinge back against the frame. This will bring the frame back to its original position and eliminate the rubbing.

Normally, the nail is placed just above the hinge. However, there are times when two nails work better—one just above and one just below the hinge. For this repair, we use a 16d box nail. If you move the door too much, you can loosen the hinge and insert a shim between the hinge and the door and-or frame. In this way, you can do finite adjustments that will get the door precisely where you want it.