There's more to a sandbox than you might think.
When we were the home improvement guys on the "Home and Family"
TV show we were asked to build a toy box. We produced a set of plans and turned
them in to the research department for approval. Within hours our blueprints
had been returned covered in red-ink comments. One producer insisted that an
anti-closing device be installed so that the lid of the toy box could not slam
down onto an unsuspecting toddler. Another producer insisted that air holes
be added to the design so that a child would be able to breathe if accidentally
trapped inside. We were then, and remain today, amazed at what we learn every
time we become involved in a new project.
Sandboxes are no different. Simple you say? No big deal? You might have eaten
dirt as a kid—or gotten away with doing things that would be considered
highly unsafe today—but do you want your children or grandchildren taking
those risks? If not, read on for sensible information about building a safe
sandbox for the little ones you love.
Remember, we're talking about a sandbox—not a sand pit. So, keep in
mind that the size we suggest is created only as a base from which to calculate
your own design.
Besides the size and budget, there are other important factors to consider
before you begin:
- The frame
- The sand
- Protecting the surface from critters
- Protecting the subsurface from critters
- Proper drainage
A sandbox can be a hole in the earth or it can be built within the confines
of a box above ground. You get to choose. Since the only difference will be
the frame, we will show ours with a frame. If you decide to excavate below grade,
you won't need the box work. One thing for sure—don't use treated wood
for the framework; use untreated lumber instead. Either pine or fir would be
ideal. Although treated wood will last much longer, it can be dangerous. And,
your youngster probably will lose interest years before untreated wood deteriorates.
Use 2x12s for the four sides (get them precut at the lumber yard) and 4x4s
for the corner posts. Have the 4x4s precut to the height of the 2x12s (11-1/4
to 11-1/2 inches, or so). You also will need some 1x material for the corner
gussets (seats). We suggest 1x12. The seats help hold things together at the
corners and provide comfortable seating as well. We recommend against using
plywood for the seats because it tends to splinter when weathered. Use 2–1/4
inch lag screws (or carriage bolts) through each end of each side board into
the 4x4 corner posts—one post in each corner. Create triangles from the
1x12 and use them as post-corner caps. They can be attached to the top edge
of the sides with 8d or 10d galvanized box nails. All the joints get covered
and you end up with enough seating for four children. A brightly colored latex
paint will add life to the wood and interest to the finished product.
Sterile sand should be used for the sandbox. It can be purchased in bags marked
"playground" or "sandbox" sand.
Once the frame is built and painted and ready to fill with sand, consider
critters from below. We suggest laying down a layer of landscape fabric before
piling on the sand. Also, depending on where you will be placing your box (especially
if it will be below grade), consider a layer of drainage rock to absorb irrigation
water. Six to eight inches of drain rock would be ample for most applications.
Finally, be sure to consider the problems associated with pets and wild critters—especially
an old cat. They'll make your sandbox their litter box, if allowed. Make digging
impossible by laying a piece of ready-made wood lattice over the top of the
sandbox when it isn't in use.
A wood frame that isn't poison; paint that doesn't contain harmful chemicals;
sterile sand protected from dampness; no critters from below; and no pests from
above! What more could your youngster want?
