We love visiting construction sites. We were surprised and fascinated when we toured a subdivision in eastern Florida and found that the exterior walls of the homes there were built with concrete blocks. (Hurricane country, you know.) Apparently, this wasn't a problem for the interior finish carpenters. Furring strips and rigid insulation were added to the interior surface of the block, creating a base for attaching wallboard and allowing space for electrical wiring and insulation. And they made for improved quiet, as well.

Recently we visited our friend and fellow author Tim Green in Illinois. He and his wife Allison opened their home...and their kitchen...to us. Since this was our first visit to their new place, we were given a full tour. In the basement, which was finished for the most part, there were block walls covered with furring strips and rigid insulation. You would think that someone would have come up with something new.

Our point: If you have an unfinished basement or are planning an addition where block walls are required, you might consider the configuration we just described. It seems to be popular everywhere. We suggest a layer of plastic sheeting between the block wall and the insulation to ensure that moisture doesn't make it past the block wall into the insulation layer.

Furring strips are used as a nailing base for wallboard and must run horizontally at the ceiling and floor. Vertical strips must be placed on each wall in every corner and should be installed at a minimum of 2 feet on center over the remaining portion of the wall (16 inches on center is better). Furr strips must also be added around window and door openings. Keep in mind that the furr strips should be slightly thicker than the insulation being used. Experts tell us that you can expect the equivalent of about R-7 per inch of rigid insulation. So, if you decided to use 2x4s on edge as your furr strips, you could expect an insulative value of R-21, with room to spare.

Be sure to use redwood or pressure-treated lumber for your furr strips. They can be attached to the wall with masonry anchors or powder-actuated pins. We own a stud gun, so that makes powder-actuated pins our least expensive choice. And, much time can be saved by not having to do all of that masonry drilling. Check out the cost of renting a stud gun before you begin. You might find it's less expensive.

Caulking or foaming all connections also is important. Cutting rigid insulation with a razor knife can leave ragged edges. Fill those spaces with spray foam. Yes, it is better to use a hand or circular saw and make a square cut all the way through the insulation, but possibly more difficult. You decide which method fits your toolbox best.

Your home is your shelter from the elements, and its energy-efficiency...and your comfort level...are elements of extreme importance. Your home also acts to protect you from unwanted noise. A quiet environment can reduce stress, enhance health and well-being and increase productivity. As our world becomes increasingly urbanized, crowded and noisy, we have come to realize that sound control in the home is not merely a luxury, but a necessity. That's why much insulation is advised.

Here are some fun-to-know facts about sound levels. Loudness is measured in decibels (dB). The decibel scale begins at the threshold of hearing (0 dB) and extends beyond the threshold of pain (120 dB) to levels that destroy hearing tissues (180 dB), and beyond. Decibels are a proportionate measurement. For example: an increase of 10 decibels is perceived as a doubling of volume. Another example: A 50 dB sound is twice as loud as a 40 dB sound. If you have typical, healthy hearing, you cannot perceive an increase of 1 dB, you can barely perceive an increase of 3 dB, but you can clearly detect an increase of 5 dB. If you have typical, healthy hearing, you cannot perceive an increase of 1 dB, you can barely perceive an increase of 3 dB, but you can clearly detect an increase of 5 dB.

By the way, a standard wall composed of studs and drywall reduces sound from an adjacent room by about 30 dB. Adding insulation can eliminate another 5-7 dB. But, there is more to sound control than a basic stud wall filled with insulation. Adding an extra layer of half-inch wallboard can reduce sound by another 8 dB. As you can see, creating a barrier that will reduce sound by 50 dBs (the level that keep things on your side of the wall pretty quiet) isn't very difficult to achieve.

Sound travels through a house just as we do...through a door, down the hall and through another door. Keeping sound out means dealing with these openings, too.

Make sure that each door is solid and fits tightly into its opening. Air leaks are sound leaks, as well.