A handsome cedar fence, an expansive redwood deck and a stately cedar gazebo all are constructed of wood. Thus, their appearance and lasting quality depends upon how well they are cared for.
As a horizontal plane, a wood deck is vulnerable to damage from exposure to ultra violet rays of the sun and rot due to prolonged contact with water from rain, snow or irrigation. This despite the fact that redwood and cedar have natural properties that make them more resistant to rot and damage from pests.
A little time, energy and a top-quality wood finish can keep your deck looking good. What's more, you won't be faced with major repair bills or, worse, the need to replace it.
One of the most important measures in keeping a deck healthy is cleaning it. Leaves, needles and other debris that collect on a deck should be removed, especially during the cooler months when they can trap moisture that fosters rot. Regular sweeping with a sturdy broom and an occasional rinsing with fresh water is sufficient for most decks.
Sweeping and rinsing might not be enough to get a really dirty deck clean. If this is the case, a solution consisting of detergent and water should be used in conjunction with a stiff bristle broom. If, however, the soap and water cleaning doesn't do the trick and stains remain, try using synthetic trisodium phosphate (TSP). Use the TSP in strict accordance with the directions and rinse the deck thoroughly when done.
If the TSP cleaning doesn't produce the desired result, use a commercial deck cleaner and/or brightener that contains either phosphoric or oxalic acid as the active ingredient. These are, in effect, wood bleaches that will remove the existing finish as well as any stubborn stains. Thus, be prepared to apply new finish to the deck. A pressure washer can be most helpful in removing oxidized wood fibers. Just be careful when using it since you can damage the wood fibers by holding the nozzle too close.
Whether using soap and water, TSP or wood bleach, you should take precautions for your safety and the health of your garden. Wear safety goggles, rubber gloves and have plenty of ventilation. Before using deck cleaners, water down surrounding plants to saturate their root systems. Also, cover plants to avoid overspray onto leaves.
Once the deck has had the opportunity to air dry overnight, you will be able to evaluate its condition to determine whether a new coat of finish is needed. If you had to use TSP or wood bleach in the cleaning process or it has been a couple of years since your deck was last finished, a new coat of finish is probably in order.
A trip to the stain section of your neighborhood paint store, home center or hardware store can leave you more confused about stains and wood finishes than before you began your search.
When it comes to finishing wood, there are two basic types of finish - oil base and water base. We suggest that you opt for an oil-base product.
Beware! Not all oils are the same. Some are thicker than others. The more penetrating the oil, the better the protection, the longer the finish will last. An easy means of testing penetration of a product is the "blotter test." Using about six sheets of white bond paper, apply a small sample of finish. Be sure to use the same amount for each sample. The one that penetrates the greatest number of sheets will offer your deck the best protection.
Ultraviolet protection is another important factor in the selection of a deck finish. Look for a product that contains transoxide pigments that will offer at least 90 percent protection from UV rays. While pigment has a great deal to do with UV protection, better finishes also contain microscopic metal particles that offer superior protection without leaving you with a heavy-bodied finish that hides the natural beauty of the wood. Keep in mind that heavy-bodied stains should not be used on horizontal surfaces since they scuff easily and show wear and tear more readily.
Mildew can be a problem with some decks, therefore it's important to use a finish that contains a mildewcide. Although a mildewcide can be added after the fact, a factory-applied one will provide a safe and properly balanced formula.
Although preparation is the better part of any painting or staining project, high-quality material and superior application techniques account for the balance of a topnotch job. It also helps to follow directions on the can of wood finish. Some common cautions found on instruction labels are to delay applying the finish when there is a threat of rain within 48 hours or when it is too hot or cold.
Most stains and wood finishes can be applied with a brush, roller or sprayer or a combination thereof. Whichever method you choose, don't over-apply the product. It is better to use two thin coats rather than one thick one. Allow the first to dry for at least three hours before applying a second. And don't forget to saturate the cut ends of the boards since they are most susceptible to rot.
The new finish should be allowed to dry for a day or two - depending on the temperature - before replacing furniture or exposing it to traffic.