Aside from providing safety, a handsome and sturdy banister (handrail and balusters) can be a decorative centerpiece in any home with stairs.

Scarlet O'Hara would not have appeared nearly as stunning as she descended the grand staircase at Tara had it contained anything less than the elaborate balustrade. And, she might not have made it safely down the steps to greet Rhett had the banister not been in tiptop condition.

Sturdy spells safety when it comes to a banister. A wobbly handrail and/or loose or broken balusters can cause a nasty fall.

Newel posts, which are anchored to the stair framing, give a banister strength and rigidity. More often than not, this anchoring system is concealed below the decorative elements of the stairs. The handrail attaches to the newel posts and the balusters (spindles) are attached to the underside of the handrail. Balusters usually are housed or stub-tenoned into the underside of the handrail and into the edge of a closed-stringer or an open-stringer stair. Sometimes they are simply butt-joined and secured with nails or are housed at the bottom, but nailed at the top.

Strengthening a wobbly banister can be a major undertaking, especially if there is no access below or if the stairs are carpeted. Due to its complexity, this might be a job that is best left to a carpenter. On the other hand, replacing a broken baluster is a task that can be accomplished in short order by most do-it-yourselfers.

The first step in the replacement process is to remove the broken baluster. This can be a lot like pulling teeth, depending upon how the baluster is anchored. A damaged baluster that is butt-joined and nailed usually can be knocked out by driving its top end backward and its bottom end forward. If, on the other hand, it is housed at the bottom, it can be pulled out of the housing once the top has been freed. If it is housed at both the top and bottom, the baluster must be sawed into two pieces. The pieces then can be removed with the help of a pipe wrench used to pry and twist.

Be careful not to destroy the damaged baluster while removing it since you will want to use it in your quest to find a replacement. Although your local home center might not stock a replacement, they might be able to order it for you. A lumberyard or store specializing in trim and stair parts is your best bet. If they don't have an exact match, they usually can custom fabricate one - though you can expect to pay a lot more in this circumstance.

If possible, use the old baluster to measure and mark the required length and angle of the new one. If this cannot be done, use an adjustable triangle or, by holding the new baluster against an existing one, scribe a pencil line to match the existing angle. Carefully saw the new baluster and check the fit by putting it into place.

The new baluster should go in the same way that the old one was removed. A hammer, finish nails, drill with a small bit, nail set and wood glue will be needed to complete the project.

Since many balusters are constructed of hardwoods, use a drill bit that is slightly smaller than the shaft of the nail to pre-drill the locations where finish nails are to be toenailed through the baluster. This will help the nail go in easily and prevent the baluster from splitting. As an alternative, you can use construction screws with a small finish head. In either case, the nail or screw head should be set slightly below the surface of the wood to allow for concealment with putty or wood dough.

If one of the ends of the baluster is housed, apply some wood glue to the doweled end prior to inserting it. Any excess glue that oozes out should be wiped up with a clean, damp cloth. A touch of caulking and a tad of paint or stain will give your banister the finishing touches.