There are garages, attics and basements across America that contain what was once useful furniture. A baby bed, grandpa's heirloom rocker, a distressed chest of drawers and perhaps even an antique or two. Old furniture never dies, it just ends up in storage.

You don't need to be an expert furniture refinisher to restore the beauty of an old oak rocker. With tools no harder to handle than an electric razor, anyone can fix up a piece that isn't broken, and give it a second life. What's more, the refinishing experience can be fun.

Removing the old finish might seem like an overwhelming task, but it can be relatively simple if you use a chemical stripper. Sanding and scraping can take days whereas with a stripper, the job can be done in a few hours. And, a chemical stripper is less likely to damage the wood. Also, the paint used on old furniture might contain lead which when sanded becomes airborne, creating potential health hazards.

The two most common methods of applying a stripper are with a paint brush or a small pump sprayer. After the stripper has soaked in, the wrinkled paint can be scraped away with a putty knife or scraper. A toothbrush-sized brass brush, a nylon brush, a nylon scouring pad and a putty knife help make the stripping process successful. Because most paint and varnish removers contain a variety of strong solvent mixtures, it's important to have plenty of ventilation, and to wear rubber gloves, a long sleeved shirt and eye protection.

Once the piece is stripped, it might still contain wax, silicone or other oils that could impede the finishing process. These can be removed with a series of washes using lacquer thinner and a clean abrasive pad. Repeat the scrub using alcohol, and a undertake third and final wash using mineral spirits. Allow the piece to dry overnight before beginning repairs and the finishing process.

Old screws should be replaced with new slightly larger ones. Loose joints should be glued using a white PVC wood glue or a yellow glue. Yellow glue tends to be stronger and is often the professional's choice. To remove unsightly dents, simply place a drop of water in the depression, then cover the spot with a damp cloth and apply a hot iron. This creates steam which expands rapidly, pushing out crushed wood-fibers.

To make the stripping and finishing process easier, it's useful to have a tool that can get into all the nooks and crannies, ease rough edges and restore worn design work.

One of the most important aspects of the finishing process is sanding. The wood should be thoroughly sanded before the finish is applied and sanded again between coats of finish. For most woods, it is not necessary to sand finer than 180 grit. After sanding is completed, sanding dust should be removed using a vacuum with an upholstery brush attachment and wiped down with a tack cloth.

One of the most popular methods of finishing a piece is with a penetrating oil stain. Stains are available in various colors and shades. The final result can be influenced by the amount of time the stain is allowed to sit and the number of coats applied. A soft cloth is one of the most effective means of applying stain. Simply dip the cloth into the stain and flood the surface of the wood, working in a circular motion. Wipe off the excess before it dries.

Some stains are "self-sealing" and don't require an additional coat of varnish or lacquer. A periodic coat of fine furniture wax is all that's needed to keep the piece looking good and to protect it from the elements. Oil varnishes (polyurethane) are among the popular top coats for furniture. They offer a more abrasion-resistant finish. Two or three coats of varnish will provide significant lasting quality. Varnishes are best applied using a china bristle brush. Be sure to lightly buff each coat with 0000 steel wool, followed by a tack cloth, before applying the next coat.

If a painted finish is the desired result, prime the piece with a high-quality oil-base primer. Tint the primer to match the finish coat for superior coverage. Finish the job with a coat or two of high-quality oil base enamel. Paint for the finish coat is available in a variety of lusters: satin, egg shell, gloss and high gloss. Make sure that you choose the one that best suits your needs.