If you haven't run your lawn mower this season, you probably soon will. It's that time of year again - spring has sprung and lawns are sprouting. Whatever mower you might use, you always should be certain that it's clean, properly lubricated and adjusted for safer, more efficient operation. Following are a few lawn mower general maintenance tips that we think you will value.

Things sometimes go haywire when a gas-powered machine is stored for a long period of time. The fuel deteriorates, a glaze builds up on the inside of the engine and rust sets in. So, one of the first things you will want to do this spring is drain the fuel tank and fill it with fresh gas. High test is best - at least 87 octane - because it will burn cleaner. By the way, we suggest that you have a plastic gas container. They don't rust or dent. And, don't buy a big container. A small one will have to be filled more often, but you won't have to worry about leftover fuel that will deteriorate in storage after the end of the season. Even 30-day-old gas might affect engine performance.

There is a special additive that you can mix with your gas that will dissolve the glaze that builds up on the internal parts of the engine. Its use can have you on your way to a quick start in no time. This additive is available at automobile-parts houses and garden-equipment stores everywhere.

Even more important than the fuel is the engine oil. You can sometimes get away with old fuel, but never, never, never, go more than one season without an oil change. Drain out the old and put in the new. Using old oil will wear out an engine faster than anything else. Tiny particles of metal and grit buildup in the oil change it from a lubricant to a sticky, gritty sanding fluid. If you don't want to pay for a premature overhaul, lubricate your gas engine every season or after every 25 hours of use. Check the owner's manual to find out what kind of oil is needed. Normally, SAE 30 is used.

The solution to rust buildup begins with cleaning and oiling your mower before storing it for the winter. Wet mud on the handle, housing and other components will turn to rust in no time. After the engine cools, use a bristle brush to remove excesses. Spray the housing, shroud, handles and cables down with WD-40. Use caution here. When cleaning the inside of the housing make absolutely sure that the spark plug wire has been removed from the spark plug and that it is positioned so that it cannot come into contact with the plug during the cleaning process. The engine can be started if the blade is manually rotated. Something you would do when cleaning the housing. This would be kind of like cranking up an airplane engine by turning the propeller.

You can easily clean the spark plug with a tiny file made for that purpose. However, for a dollar or so that must be spent, it makes a lot more sense to replace it. Best performance results when fresh fuel is ignited by a new spark plug in a well-lubricated engine. If you don't have an owner's manual, contact the manufacturer. You can have one mailed or you can download one from the Internet.

Could you imagine trying to breathe through a dirty diaper? Well, that is kind of what it is like for a small gas engine when its filter gets dirty. The filter exists to protect the internal parts of the engine from garden dirt and dust and can easily become a mud-clogged mess. Service it every 25 hours or every season - whichever comes first. Make it part of your oil-change program. Dislodge dust buildup by tapping the filter. Some filters can be cleaned with a solvent; others must be replaced. Again, refer to your owner's manual.

With the plug and plug wire disconnected, the blade should be inspected and sharpened, if necessary. It is important to remove the blade. Never attempt to sharpen it in place. If you have a bench grinder, the task can be accomplished in a few minutes, whereas filing by hand can take up to 30 minutes. Hand-filing is much easier when the blade is mounted in a vise. Remember: a left-hand nut is used to hold the blade in place. Turn it clockwise to loosen it and counterclockwise for tightening.

Finally, power-propelled mowers have belts that wear. These should be checked and replaced if frayed.