Even when the same color is applied, a fresh coat of paint can give a distressed surface a clean and uniform finish. And, an added coat of paint, if of good quality, can make a surface more abrasion-resistant. That means that it will stand up to the wear and tear of kids. The surface also will be a lot easier to clean and be without risk of removing the paint when washed.
Paint provides a protective coating from environmental conditions that could otherwise lead to distressed finishes, material failure and perhaps even rot. We recommend that the walls and ceiling of a wet area bathroom, laundry or kitchen, for example be painted with an oil base semi-gloss enamel. Aside from its tough finish, it is more apt to withstand moisture, hence protecting the wallboard and framing below. By the way, paint is not a vapor barrier and is in no way a substitute for adequate ventilation in a damp space.
Preparation accounts for about three-quarters of a paint job. It includes washing, scraping, filling, sanding, caulking, masking and priming. It is an absolute must for any successful painting project, indoors or out.
Indoors, holes in walls and ceilings should be repaired with a vinyl spackling compound. Since most of these products are prone to shrinkage, more than one coat may be required. Larger damaged areas likely will require a wallboard or plaster patch. Wallboard repairs can be made with Fiberglas joint tape and drywall joint compound. Plaster repairs are best done using a plaster patching product.
The most difficult part of making a wall patch is matching the textured finish. This can be done relatively effectively by the do-it-yourselfer with spray texture in an aerosol can.
Flaking paint at exterior finishes, such as siding, trim, gutters and downspouts, much be removed. A paint scraper, not a putty knife, is the most effective tool for removing flaking, chipped or blistered paint. It sometimes is useful to begin with a power washing with water to remove the majority of the damage and then to follow up with the finer prep work. Finally, remove mold and mildew with a 50/50 solution of bleach and water.
Damaged areas can be repaired with a high-quality exterior-grade vinyl spackling compound. Severely damaged wood siding should be replaced with new material or patched with an epoxy resin patch material. Once sanded, all patch locations should be spot-primed with an oil-base material in preparation for the finish coat.
Choosing the right paint and applicators for the job is key to an attractive and long-lasting result. Earlier, we discussed using an oil-base enamel for spaces subject to abundant moisture. For other spaces in the home, invest in a high-quality 100-percent-acrylic latex flat wall paint. Note that we used the word "invest" because we strongly believe that the right paint is a good investment.
Generally speaking, the more costly the paint the better the quality. What that means is that you will likely get one-coat coverage, the paint will be more abrasion-resistant and will remain looking good longer.
Use the right applicator. Brushes are great for windows, doors, trim and for cutting into corners and hard-to-get-at areas. A roller makes applying paint over a large flat area easy going. Not all brushes are alike. Use synthetic (nylon and polyester) for water-base paints and natural Chinese bristle for oil-base. A long-nap roller works best for rough or heavily textured surfaces, while a short-nap one is the choice for smooth walls and ceilings. Brush and roller size is determined by the area being painted. Don't select a 4-inch brush to paint a window sash, but rather choose an inch-and-a-half trim brush.
A good rule of thumb is to apply a 2 to 3-inch band around the ceiling with a brush where a roller can't reach. Do the same around corners and around trim at walls. Then use a roller first to finish the ceiling and then to paint the walls.
How much paint will you need? This can be determined by multiplying the wall height by the total length of walls (don't discount windows and doors). Add the area of the ceiling and then divide by the square footage of coverage listed on the can. This can range from 200 to 400 square feet per gallon, on average.
If your painting project will last more than a day, you can preserve your latex paint-laden roller by wrapping it in plastic wrap and placing it in the freezer over night. This will prevent it from drying out; once thawed it will be ready to go.