Paneling is a user-friendly and cost-effective means of sprucing up unsightly walls. Those covered with nicks, gouges, gashes, ugly paint or unwanted wallpaper are prime candidates for paneling.

Paneling is available in a vast array of styles, colors and patterns. With or without grooves, real wood veneer or photo finish, light or dark the choices are almost limitless. And with the myriad options come a broad range of prices. For example, a sheet of photo finish or fabricated material can cost a fraction of a sheet with a natural veneer finish.

The ultimate decision will have a great deal to do with the desired look and the budget. Other deciding factors are the size of the space being paneled. If one wall of a room is to be paneled, the number of sheets required is fewer than if the entire room were to be done. Hence, a more expensive paneling can be chosen.

Conversely, if all of the walls in a room are to be done, or if the room is large, budget might dictate a more moderately priced material. If possible, go with quality. Ultimately, the material will look better, last longer and be easier to maintain.

Aside from the paneling, the other materials needed are trim material (baseboard, corner trim, etc.) paneling nails, panel adhesive, interior flat wall paint and a putty stick. The tools include a paint brush, finish hammer, circular saw and/or hand saw with a sharp finish blade, a level and a tape measure. It also helps to have a couple of saw horses handy on which to lay the material while making cuts.

Prior to installing the first sheet, there are steps that need to be followed. First, if the paneling is to be installed over drywall or plaster, locate the studs. This can be done using an electronic stud sensor or with a finish nail and a hammer. Once a stud has been located, the others can generally be found at 16-inch centers. Whenever possible, the paneling nails should be driven into a stud for a more secure fastening. This is especially important at the joints where two sheets abut one another.

Most paneling comes in sheets 4 feet wide by 8 feet high. It's best to start in a corner. First, determine if the corner is plumb (that's level up and down) by placing a level in the corner. If the adjacent wall is significantly out of plumb, the first piece of paneling might need to be ripped to follow the wall. This for two reasons: to allow the corner trim to cover the joint and for the first sheet to be plumb. It is essential that the first sheet be plumb to ensure that each of the successive pieces are in turn. Use a level to establish a plumb line and align the factory edge of the first sheet with this line.

Using a panel adhesive in a caulking gun, apply a medium bead of adhesive at the entire perimeter of the sheet and at uniform intervals throughout the field. Apply the adhesive in a zigzag pattern for the best coverage. Next, place the sheet against the wall and attach it using the paneling nails. Where possible the nails should be installed in the grooves, spaced 8 to 10 inches apart. Nailing at the joints should be slightly closer. Where no grooves exist, the nails should be set with a punch and concealed using a color coordinated putty stick.

The most difficult aspect of paneling installation has to do with cutting around windows, doors and electrical boxes. Use a measuring tape to transfer these locations on the reverse side of the paneling and make cuts using a jigsaw and a handsaw with a sharp finish blade.

Once all of the paneling is up, the trim can be installed at the corners, ceiling and the base. Trim at the ceiling is optional, depending on neatness or lack of same.

A common problem that occurs after paneling has been installed for a while is buckling. This is generally a result of excessive moisture. To remedy this condition, apply a panel adhesive before renailing the panel to the studs.

The fix is simple. Insert a pry bar under the loose panel, partially opening the area. Use a wood block for leverage and also to protect the finish. Loosen the edge, one nail at a time. Remove all the nails from the loose edge. Keep the pried area of the panel wedged with scraps of wood. Apply a bead of panel adhesive with a caulking gun to the surface of the drywall, plaster or stud.

Wait for the adhesive to set up, remove the wedges and press the panel into place. Drive color-matched nails into the panel along the glued edge. It is best to drive the nails into the old nail holes. Fill holes and nail heads with a color-matched putty stick.