Exterior caulking is a maintenance project that should be performed every summer or two. This practice will prevent winter heartache. Caulking is a sealant that is applied at joints and connections all around the home to prevent air and moisture from getting inside during the wet season.
It is available in small 10.5-ounce tubes and larger 29-ounce ones. Because the smaller tubes are easier to find, we strongly recommend purchasing a smaller gun. Some caulking guns are made from metal, others from a combination of fiberglass and nylon and some are made from ABS plastic. We like the ones that are made from fiberglass and nylon. They are light in weight and durable. Unfortunately, they aren't available everywhere, so our second choice is metal.
All caulking guns have a trigger and a plunger. Pull the trigger and the plunger pushes the caulk out of the tube. There is a relationship between the length to which the trigger is pulled and the corresponding distance that the plunger moves the trigger ratio. If the trigger is pulled all the way and the plunger moves a long distance the ratio is low, 6:1 for example. If the plunger moves a short distance, the ratio is higher, such as 18:1. If the ratio is high, the gun will not dispense as much caulking per trigger pull, but the trigger itself will be much easier to pull. If you have arthritis or a similar problem, the high-ratio gun is the one for you. Also, guns with higher ratios are easier to use when the compound being pumped has hardened slightly, as many caulks and adhesives will with age. Faster applications result from a lower ratio.
More important than the gun is the type of caulking and how and where it will be applied. Don't be overwhelmed by the fact that there is one caulking made specifically for use with concrete, others for brick, wood, glass and metal. In fact, there is a caulking made for use with just about every building material known to man. Now that you know about what's available, we'll tell you what's good. For sealing up the exterior of a home, try polyurethane caulking. It sticks to just about everything, it doesn't harden and it lasts far longer than common siliconized latex caulking. Polyurethane costs a little more, but lasts longer.
Once you are outfitted with the proper caulking gun and somewhere between 12 and 20 tubes of caulk (one tube will do two to three average windows or doors), you should remove debris and scrape the old caulk out of the joints, cracks and crevices that are to be sealed. Don't apply over joints filled with old caulking. As soon as that old caulking peels away, the polyurethane will separate right along with it.
Opening a tube of caulk is not rocket science, but there is a right way and a wrong way. A close inspection of the business end will reveal angled lines surrounding the tip that are actually molded into it. Cutting the tip off with a knife at the line farthest from the end will allow a large bead of caulk to be ejected from the tube. Cutting the tip off at the line nearest the end will allow only a small bead out. We suggest that you cut the tube on the line nearest the tip and start with a small bead. Remember: caulking is not made to fill 1/2-inch gaps. Therefore, wide gaps should be reduced to no more than 1/4-inch in width by nailing, screwing and/or shimming before caulk is applied.
Caulking can help to reduce wind infiltration, making your home more comfortable all year. And, as we mentioned earlier, it will also help to keep your home dry during winter months. Aesthetic value is important, too. Caulking seals gaps that can be painted, resulting in a neat uniform exterior finish. On the other hand, a sloppy bead of caulk can ruin the appearance of a window, a door or even the exterior wall covering. Be careful. Start by applying small beads until you feel comfortable with the tool. Use your finger, where it is safe, to press the caulking into place. Scrape the excess away and touch up the paint.
Caulk along seams of inside and outside corner moldings, where the siding meets the foundation, between window and door trim and siding and plumbing and electrical penetrations.
