"The Beverly Hillbillies," a '60s television series, might have given viewers the impression that swimming pools were the province of loaded Californians. That is not the case today. We travel by air across this great land and can report with certainty that swimming pools are everywhere.

Regardless of construction; above-ground, in-ground, fiberglass, vinyl or plaster, a swimming pool requires regular care and maintenance to ensure safe and healthful conditions. It is regular maintenance that keeps the equipment operating at peak efficiency. Well-maintained equipment can result in a friendlier utility bill because the equipment won't have to work quite as hard and can be run fewer hours each day.

Many people believe that a pool can be shut down during winter months. This is true in certain parts of the country where temperatures dip below freezing a good part of the time, but can be damaging to a pool in warmer circumstances.

In cold climates there are several steps that must be taken to prepare the pool for winter. Some include draining the heater manifold, strainer basket and pump, and the solar heating system, if one exists. Also, the skimmer expansion plug should be installed inside the skimmer housing. A pool that is shut down for the winter should be covered to keep out leaves and other debris. Consult the Consumer Products Safety Commission for an approved cover that will prevent the possibility of children and animals drowning.

Draining the pool can cause significant damage to it. The weight of the water in the pool actually keeps it from rising out of the ground due to hydrostatic pressure from the earth. Emptying the pool can allow hydrostatic pressure to push the pool and surrounding decking out of the ground.

Whether or not a pool is shut down during the winter, the beginning of swim season or the pool opening is one of the most critical times for pool maintenance.

If the pool is located in a colder climate and has been shut down for the winter, drain plugs at the solar system, pump and heater will need to be replaced, and, the simmer expansion plug removed.

For pools that are covered, any water that has collected on top of the cover should be pumped out using a small submersible pump. Use the leaf net on the end of an extension pole to remove leaves and other large clusters of debris. This is a great opportunity to clean the cover before storing it. Rinse the cover with fresh water while using the pool brush on an extension pole to free debris that clings to it. Continue to rinse and pump out as much water as possible. The cover can then be removed.

The next step is to get the equipment running by restoring the prime. Before starting the pump, completely open the valve from the main drain. Water should be added to the strainer basket at the pump. It's best to use a garden hose, rather than a bucket, since you'll be filling the main drain line as well as the strainer basket. It should be filled until it runs over. Replace the strainer basket lid hand-tight. Add a little petroleum jelly or marine-type grease to the O-ring or gasket material to keep it supple and to avoid a leak. It also serves to keep seals pliable underwater and from drying out when the system is drained.

It is now safe to start the pump motor. Air is likely to blow out of the pool inlet lines causing bubbling at the surface of the water in the pool. This will quickly vanish as water fills the lines and makes it way into the pool. If the pump should lose its prime, refill the strainer basket and repeat the process. Once the pump is running at capacity, excess air should be bled from the filter and separation tank.

With the equipment running, check the system for leaks. A few of the most likely locations are the cover at the strainer basket, valves and plugs, plumbing and equipment fittings and at the compression rings which hold the filter and separation tank lids in place. The most common repairs for leaks include gasket and O-ring lubrication or replacement, and valve or plumbing fitting repair or replacement.

Regardless of the type of filter, it is best to start the season with one that is clean. Back-washing the system is generally not enough to give the filter a good cleaning. For example, a diatomaceous earth filter should first be back-washed and then taken apart in order for all of the filter grids to be washed with a degreasing product, fresh water and a nylon brush. And, although a sand filter doesn't need to be recharged, it's a good idea to pour a degreaser into the top at least once each season. For cartridge filters, install a new cartridge, and follow the maintenance instructions in the owner's manual.

One of the most underrated, yet important aspects of pool maintenance is water balancing. Properly balanced water not only provides a safe and healthful swimming environment, but preserves the integrity of the pool and equipment, as well.

An opening "shock treatment" is the first order of business. This extra dose of sanitizer helps kill bacterial and other organic contaminants, and is the first line of defense for keeping algae from getting started. Also, total alkalinity (TA) should be maintained in the range of 60 to 100 parts per million (ppm). Low TA causes fluctuating pH and excessive corrosion and staining of equipment. Speaking of pH, it should be adjusted to the ideal range of 7.2 to 7.6. The calcium hardness should be maintained at a minimum of 200 ppm.

Once the water is conditioned, maintain free available chlorine in the range of 1.0 to 3.0 ppm. For those who have a pool maintenance service, this is not a concern since the maintenance professional will start up the pool at the beginning of swim season and make frequent checks throughout it. Those who don't should take a sample to a pool chemical and supply retailer. The company will generally test the water for free or for a nominal fee.

Pool water must be tested regularly, especially when the pool is being used heavily, to ensure that the water is properly balanced. Therefore, it's a good idea to have a testing kit handy along with the needed chemicals to keep the water in balance between visits by the maintenance professional.