What compares to the annoyance of drooping drawers? How about sagging shelves? A shelf isn't likely to sag without the weight of some type of load being placed upon it too much clothing, too many dishes, too many books. Over-spanning, under-sizing, over-loading and general lack of support are a few of the reasons a shelf sags.

Unless you're willing to part with that letter sweater from high school, the dress that you wore to the prom 30 years ago or that stack of spy novels, it's time to prop up that sagging shelf.

One of the simplest methods of repairing a sag involves reusing the existing shelf. The shelf is removed and flipped over so that the bow points upward. The shelf will straighten out over time once a few items are placed upon it.

First, carefully remove the shelf from the supports to which it is attached. More often than not the shelf is secured using finish nails. One of the most effective ways to remove the nails without damaging the shelf is to drive the nails through the shelf material into the support cleats using a nail punch.

Another method involves using a block of wood and a hammer. Place the block of wood under the shelf where it is nailed to the cleat. Strike the block with hammer several times to force the nails out of the cleat. Remove the nails from the shelf using a hammer or pliers. Sometimes the shelf will work free of the nails and the nails will remain in the cleat. Pull the nails or simply cut them off using side cutters. Put the shelf aside for reinstallation later.

Now would be the time to resecure the cleats at either end of the shelf and to add a 1 x 4 inch cleat at the rear of the shelf (if one does not already exist). Check the cleat at the back of the shelf with a level before attaching the shelf with finish nails or drywall screws. Use a small one (a two-foot level or a bullet level) to make sure that the cleats at either end are level front to back, then beef up support with nails or screws.

In all cases, the nails or screws should be installed through the cleat and into a stud or solid framing. An electronic stud finder, a hammer and a trained ear or a hammer and a finish nail are all good methods for locating a stud. Once a stud is found, use a measuring tape to locate an adjacent stud. Most studs are generally 16 or 24 inches on center from one another. In the event that a stud doesn't exist, use a lag shield or an expansion anchor along with a screw.

Next, reinstall the old shelf with the "sag" up. Use drywall screws to reattach the shelf. The screws will be less likely to damage the cleat and they will also be useful in drawing the shelf down against the cleat. In the case of a shelf above a wardrobe pole, diagonal metal support brackets can be installed for added support. One end of the bracket attaches to a stud while the other end, consisting of a semicircle, connects to the underside of the shelf. The semicircle wraps around the underside of the wardrobe pole to further prevent sagging.

Here's a neat trick that can be used to increase storage for a small investment. Most closets have wasted space behind the clothes rod, just under the shelf. A secondary shelf that is 3-to-4 inches deep (front to back) can be installed the full length. Wood cleats similar to those discussed earlier or prefabricated metal shelf brackets are all that is needed for support. The shelf will be ready to store paperback books, toiletries or other odds and ends.