Bicycles, barbecues, patio furniture, lawn and garden equipment, steel window frames, rain gutters and downspouts are some of the things around the home that are susceptible to rust damage. Simply stated, rust is a reddish-brown oxide formed on iron and iron-containing material by low-temperature oxidation in the presence of water.

Aside from its ugly appearance, left untreated, rust can bring any of the mentioned products to an early demise and lead to other damage. For example, a rain gutter that is leaking profusely due to a rusted joint could allow water to travel along the wood trim at the roof line or, perhaps, down the wood siding. This will result ultimately in rot that might cost hundreds or even thousands of dollars to repair.

Another example is a rusted window frame. Water could enter through the frame and go down into the wall framing below. This could result in the removal of the wall and the need to replace it with new framing, siding and plaster or wallboard.

Rust presents a safety issue, as well. A rusted-out screw or the rust-ravaged leg of a garden chair could result in a nasty fall. Rusty outdoor power equipment leaves the operator particularly vulnerable because a damaged bolt could become a projectile.

Dealing with rust is often a paint project and preparation is important. First, rusted screws and fasteners should be removed. Replacements should be installed after surrounding rust has been eliminated and the object has been refinished. A couple of the most difficult aspects of replacing a damaged fastener are removing it and locating a replacement. One of the best methods of removing a rusted-out piece is to saturate it with an oil lubricant such as WD-40. The lubricant frequently will be just what's needed to break the bond in combination with a screwdriver, pliers or wrench.

Heat is another alternative. Be sure to wipe off any lubricant first, as the combination can cause a fire. A heat gun or propane torch will cause a stubborn nut to expand and break loose from the bolt. When all else fails, a drill and a hacksaw will usually do the trick. Difficult-to-find replacement fasteners can sometimes be located at a machine shop.

The next step is to remove as much rust as possible. An old-fashioned wire brush will remove the majority of the surface rust. However, if you're anything like us, you'll likely take the path of least resistance, in this case using a power tool. We suggest a wire wheel on the end of a power drill. For safety's sake don't forget protective goggles, gloves, long sleeves and a fabric breathing mask.

The remaining rust can be handled in a couple of ways: chemical removal and chemical conversion. Naval jelly is a product that contains phosphoric acid which works well in removing rust from all kinds of surfaces. Naval jelly is applied to the affected area, allowed to remain for a bit and wiped off.

Rust converters are a popular alternative if removing rust down to bare metal is impossible. The rust converter (a paint) chemically converts the rust to a paintable surface and contains ingredients that will inhibit future rust growth. A converter is not required if the majority of the rust has been successfully removed.

Whether or not a converter is used, the next step is to wash the metal. This will allow the surface primer to adhere better. There are various one-step washing products available on the market. Most of these primers contain one form or another of acid: phosphoric acetic or citric acid. We have found that straight vinegar on a soft cloth works quite well. Once washed and allowed to dry, the metal should be painted with a primer designed specifically to be used with metal. Metal primers contain ingredients such as zinc oxide and red oxide which help resist rust. Additionally, a primer provides extra resistance to harsh elements and improves adhesion of the topcoat. An oil-base metal primer should be used even if a rust converter has been applied.

Most exterior metal surfaces will be more abrasion-resistant and last longer if an oil-base enamel top coat is applied. In fact, some of the rust converters require an oil-base top coat. Metal railings, garden furniture, toys, outdoor power equipment and farm equipment should have an oil-base top coat because of the abuse they are subject to.

Special items such as radiators, vents, registers, pipes, light fixtures and fans that generate heat less than 200ºF should be top-coated with a paint designed to be used with this type of heat. Note that most paints will emit a harmless odor the first time that they are heated, as on a radiator.

Exceptions to the oil-base top coat rule might be gutters and downspouts, for one primary reason architectural appearance. An acrylic latex top coat produces a low sheen that tends not to draw unwanted attention to these architectural elements. If they are to stand out, it should be a function of color and not paint luster. Further, due to their inaccessibility, abrasion resistance provided by oil-base enamel isn't a priority.

Grills, fireplaces, wood or coal stoves, heaters and furnaces should by top-coated with a high heat enamel specifically designed for use with items that are too hot to touch. They generate heat in excess of 200ºF.

Converters, primers and paints can be sprayed, rolled or brushed. When spraying it's always a good idea to backbrush for a smooth, uniform surface. Remember to use a natural china bristle brush when using oil-base paints. Synthetic brushes made from nylon or polyester work best with latex paints.