When we were learning to become carpenters the first thing we discovered was we had to work harder than ever before. And, we had to learn about safety in a construction area. Finally, before we could be considered apprentices, we had to learn how properly to use the various tools of our trade including a vast variety of hand saws.
When three or four cuts are all that are required, virtually any saw will do. But, if you intend to do a fair amount of wood work, you will discover that the right saw properly sharpened will make the task much easier.
There are far more variations in handsaws than in other tools, and every in-home workshop needs at least one good one. The handsaw that we feel is most versatile is the crosscut saw which is used for cutting across the grain of wood. The rip saw has larger teeth and is used for cutting along the grain. Our workshop also includes a compass saw, backsaw, coping saw and for metal work, a hacksaw.
The cutting teeth of a crosscut saw are alternately bent (or set) so that the tooth structure is greater in width than the blade itself. The set ensures that only the saw's teeth contact the wood during cutting. This substantially reduces the chance of the blade binding against the wood. The sharpness of a crosscut saw can be felt by gently rubbing a thumb and index finger along the sides of the teeth. Both the set and the sharpness of the teeth can be discerned in this fashion. If the edges feel smooth, the saw is dull. As an added measure, carpenters rub the blade with bee's wax to lubricate it and to further reduce the chance of binding. The number of teeth per inch has a great deal to do with how a crosscut saw works. For example: eight teeth per inch produces fast rough cuts, and a crosscut saw with 12 teeth per inch will produce finer cuts but they take longer to make. We have an 8-point, a 10-point and several 12-point crosscut saws in our workshop.
A hint: You can keep your handsaws sharper longer by cutting a piece of plastic tubing lengthwise and pressing it over the edge of the teeth. Since we have an electric circular saw, we have no need for a hand-held rip saw. Although there was a time when we frequently ripped wood by hand we have found it to be hard work. But, if a power saw isn't in your budget, a rip saw is a must. Attempting a rip with a crosscut saw can turn a project into a career.
The compass saw has a long, narrow, flexible blade that is used for cutting curves. Although, it is designed for use with wood, it also works wonders with drywall. With wood, a hole is first drilled giving the compass saw a starting point. With wallboard, the pointed tip of the saw actually can be driven into the wallboard creating its own starting point.
A backsaw is a small version of a fine-point crosscut saw except that it has a rigid back, making it the best choice for cuts like trim miters and bevels that must be cut straight and smooth.
A coping saw has the finest tooth pattern of all wood saws 20 teeth per inch. It is used for cutting patterns and sharp corners. Carpenters cope-cut joints in crown molding and baseboard to prevent an open joint that often occurs when wood is joined with a miter.
A hacksaw is not designed to cut wood, but no woodworker can consider his saw collection complete without one. As long as wood is attached with metal nails or screws, there will be a need for a hacksaw. As with other saw blades, the more teeth per inch the finer and slower the cut. For most jobs, 14 teeth per inch will do the trick, but for pipes and tubing 24 per inch is best.
A word of caution a handsaw can take a finger off in one swipe. Get a lesson from a local wood shop teacher before going out on your own. Home improving can be fun, safe and fulfilling with the right tools and proper know-how.
Q. I frequently read your articles on how to overcome problems pertaining to homes and households. Most of them are valuable and I clip them for reference. For the first time I am now in need of your help. I have three questions: Is there a substance on the market for repairing tiny chips on a Formica counter? How do I protect the front door against the full hot sunshine of summer? And finally, is there a high-tech coating for old bathtubs, sinks and tiles?
A. For your plastic laminate top you will want to use SeamFil. To find a dealer near you call Kampel Enterprises at (717) 432-9688. Exterior doors that are exposed to full summer sun need yearly maintenance. If we owned your house, we would build a porch overhang large enough to shade the door. In the long run that will prove to be the least expensive alternative. In the meantime try a clear coat of Spar varnish. It is used on boats, and holds up very well in temperature extremes. There is no plumb fixture coating we know of that you can apply yourself. However, there are companies that repaint plumbing fixtures and tile. We consider this a temporary fix at best for sinks and tubs, and strongly recommend that you don't have the process done to your tile. Whatever you do, be sure to hire a reputable contractor who offers a five-year warranty.
