When we were kids, the postman brought the mail to our door. However, with a mind toward streamlining, Uncle Sam found it more efficient to provide curbside delivery in many locales. Many of us who once enjoyed porchside delivery now are walking to the curb for our mail. The use of mailboxes is so widespread, a whole new cottage industry has developed. If cost is not a factor, you have a wide range of letter containers from which to choose.

On the other hand if you are concerned about price, you'll want to know how to install a cost-efficient mailbox that will last a while.

There are two main areas to address: The installation of the post in the earth and the connection of the mailbox to the post. If these two are done properly, your letter box will be maintenance-free for a couple of decades, or possibly longer.

The size and type of the post have something to do with lasting quality. Westerners should use redwood or pressure-treated fir and Easterners will want to consider pressure-treated pine. Although a 4x4 is sufficient, a 6x6 post will last longer. Regardless of the type of wood used, improper installation can shorten its life expectancy. Post longevity is improved when surface water is directed so that it sheds away from the post base. Most of us have the tendency to hold the uppermost part of the concrete below the earth's surface where it can't be seen. Doing this can create a mini water reservoir where the post and concrete meet. This condition will rot even the best piece of lumber in only a few years.

Post stability is improved as the depth and diameter of the post hole increase. Remember though, the larger the hole the greater the cost. The post-hole diameter should not be less than 12 inches. Keeping the hole reasonably shallow (about 2 feet) reduces digging effort and the amount of concrete and earth needed to backfill. Here's a tip: Adding extension legs to the concrete can improve overall stability for a very small amount of money and gives the configuration the improved strength of a much larger hole. All you have to do is use a few scraps of galvanized water pipe. Simply drive them into the base of the hole. Leave each of the three or four pieces of pipe protruding into the base of the hole so that they will become imbedded into the concrete. Large pieces of scrap steel can also be used.

The most common method of securing the post in the hole is to use a layer of concrete and a layer of dirt topped with a second layer of concrete. Use one sack of posthole mix per hole ö half in the bottom and half at the top. If your soil usually is moderately damp it is wise to replace the center layer of dirt with concrete. If your soil is very damp, replace the dirt in the middle with concrete and dig the post hole an extra 6 inches, filling the extra depth with drain rock. A dry post is a long-lasting one. Providing watershed and drainage helps keep the post dry. Finishing the concrete above ground and sloping it around the post to drain is critical.

No matter how strong the post-to-ground connection is, if the mailbox is not firmly attached to the post it soon will come loose. A notched horizontal support and an angle brace make up a configuration that looks something like the top of a realtor's sign. The horizontal support is attached to the post with a lag bolt and metal straps. The angle brace can be attached with nails or lag screws, but the best means is achieved by using two quarter-inch through bolts to affix each end. It is important to attach as much of the mail box itself to wood as is possible. It would be a mistake to omit the horizontal base support and angle brace. Attaching the mail box directly to the top of the post is insufficient and will not hold up. Four through bolts should be used to attach the mailbox to the base support, one in each corner.