"Baby Boomers" have been setting trends in America since the late 1940s. That they are getting older is manifesting itself in some interesting ways. And, to a great extent, in the home. Where it was once rare for us to be asked to design doors and halls for wheelchair access, it is now not at all unusual. In the past, grab bars were available only in a commercial design big and bulky and not bright brass or polished chrome. There was no such thing as a "decorator" grab bar. Now, not only can you readily get decorator bars for your home, you can choose from several different brands, models and finishes, as well.

A large, round stainless steel bar with eased corners and a brushed finish is easier to hold on to than some of the decorator models now on the market. For that reason, it is wise to test the prospective purchase. Get a grip on what you are buying to ensure the "grab" is a comfortable one for you.

Grab bars work best in pairs and multiples of three. For example, in a toilet area, one behind the toilet and another to one side of it provide support whatever your position. For tubs and showers, three bars are appropriate one at the back wall and one at each end wall. Bathers tend to like grab bars at about 3 feet above the floor, and folks who shower prefer a height of 4 feet.

Grab bars are designed to be mounted horizontally. This is because such a mounting provides more area to latch onto should you begin to fall.

A grab bar usually comes with its own mounting screws. These are screws that are recommended by the manufacturer to ensure a proper and safe installation. Use them, as opposed to substitute ones, to be certain that the bar doesn't fall in the event you do. Be sure to check the manufacturer's installation instructions. In some instances he will tell you how deep the mounting screw must penetrate into solid wood. If you have thick tile-on-mortar shower walls, longer screws might be needed than are required for a thin solid surface material, like Corian.

In any case, grab-bar mounting screws MUST be attached to solid wood. This often means removing wallboard so that wood blocking can be added to the inside of the wall cavity. And although removing wallboard at a toilet might not be costly, it could be expensive to remove and replace tile at a shower. Many showers back up to walls that can be accessed at less expense via an adjacent closet or bedroom. Look into that possibility.

Once you have created an opening in the wall, attach solid wood blocks at the shower side of the cavity. Almost any size block can be used from 2x6 to 2x10, or larger. Three 16d box nails are normally used at each end of each block to ensure a secure connection to the wall studs. However, the use of 3-inch long drywall screws will provide as strong a connection, and will not risk damage to an adjacent ceramic tile.

Once blocks are in place and wall surfaces have been patched, the next step is the easiest part of the project attaching the grab bar to the wall. If tile happens to be the wall surface, pre-drilling will be necessary. Most folks don't realize that tile is just as easy to drill as wood. Use a sharp object such as an awl to nick the glaze on the tile. This will provide a pilot point that will help to steady the masonry drill bit.

Last, be sure to fill all holes with silicone caulk BEFORE mounting the grab bar. This will make for a waterproof connection. Use alcohol to remove excess silicone caulking.