Decorative ornamental railings can do wonders for the appearance of a home. Aside from architectural enhancement, they serve an important purpose safety. Hand rails at stairs and elevated porches and balconies are a must. And, a securely anchored and well-maintained steel railing system can last virtually forever.

There is one major enemy to steel. The culprit is rust. Over time, rust will attack the finish. What's more, if left untreated, it could threaten the structural integrity of the railing.

Although man has yet to invent a fool-proof method of preventing rust, there are various techniques that can be used to restore rusty railings and slow its return.

Unfortunately, a fresh coat of paint applied over rust will only temporarily mask it. The real secret to dealing with rust is to remove as much of it as possible before attempting to apply a new finish. This can be a tedious process that requires excessive elbow grease. The rust must be removed and the finish brought down to bare metal.

There are various methods and tools that can be used to remove rust. Most small-railing projects can be easily handled with a wire brush. In fact, more than one wire brush should be used. Start with a coarse bristle brush to remove the first layer of corrosion, followed by a brush with finer bristles to remove the rust that remains.

Sandpaper, sanding tape, flexible sanding sponges, steel wool and nylon scouring pads all work well and can be especially useful when working on tubing or twisted and curved material. Sanding cord (industrial strength dental floss) is a must when working around the hard-to-access decorative elements of a railing. As with sandpaper, sanding cord is available in a variety of grits.

A wire brush or wire wheel attached to an electric drill can make simple work of stripping rust. A bit of fine finishing with sandpaper or steel wool will help remove any residue that may remain.

Whichever method you choose, be sure to wear protective gloves and safety goggles. These will prevent eye injuries from flying metal particles.

Not all rust is created equal. Some rust simply can't be sanded or scraped without resulting in damage to the railing. When such is the case, a good bet is to use a chemical rust remover or "desolver." Naval jelly works well. The gel formula can be sprayed on or brushed into the surface, and should remain on it from 15 to 30 minutes for best results. Then, simply rinse it off with fresh water. More than one application might be required, depending on the severity of the rust. The active ingredient in naval jelly is phosphoric acid. Again, safety first: Be sure to wear rubber gloves, safety goggles and have plenty of fresh ventilation.

While we recommend removing rust, there may be areas where this is impossible. If you can't dissolve it, convert it. Rust "converters" can be applied directly over rust. There is a chemical reaction that occurs that seals the rust and prevents new rust from forming. Once cured, a fresh coat of paint can be applied directly over the converter. One major disadvantage in using a converter in lieu of removing the rust is the likelihood of an uneven finish. The best way to guarantee a smoother finish is to scrape and sand.

Time is of the essence. Once the rust has been removed, the railing should be primed within 24 hours to avoid the formation of new rust. If some rust remains and a converter was not used, use a "direct-to-rust" primer. This will bond any lingering rust and prevent it from spreading. Otherwise, use an oil-base metal primer that contains zinc oxide or red oxide. These primers are designed to be used with metal, will help prevent rust and provide super adhesion for the top coat.

Whichever primer you elect to use, it's important to choose a top coat that is compatible with the primer. In general, a high-gloss oil-base enamel is the most compatible with an oil-base primer. It also offers the greatest abrasion resistance and weather resistance. One coat each of a high quality primer and a high quality oil-base top coat is all that should be required.

The primer and top coat can be applied using a brush, roller, paint-pad or sprayer. Applying the paint with a brush, roller or paint-pad can be like painting the Golden Gate Bridge. Spray painting using aerosol spray paint or with a do-it-yourself spray rig affords several advantages. The job is more palatable, it works well on intricate designs and the finish is smoother (no brush marks).

There are several precautions that should be taken when spraying. First, employ all of the safety tips outlined earlier. Second, when using a spray rig, use a tip that is compatible with the paint and which will avoid putting on too much paint at once. Paint runs and alligatoring can be avoided by applying a greater number of thinner coats. Finally, spend a little extra time masking off surrounding areas with plastic, paper or canvas to avoid damage by overspray. This is not a project that should be attempted on a windy day.