In addition to adding useful space to a garden, a deck can serve as an area for entertaining and, in some cases, can connect two otherwise remote points in a large yard.

While building a deck isn't one of the easier do-it-your-self projects, it is one that handy homeowners can accomplish with a bit of training. Books, videos, summer building camps and columns such as this are excellent sources for gathering information. Most deck building resource manuals will also include information on deck design as well. There is available a computer program called "Design & Build Your Deck" (DBYD) which patiently takes the operator through all phases of deck design and construction. The program is filled with animated graphics that offer step-by-step instruction on how to perform specific tasks such as pouring posts or properly driving a nail into a deck board.

"Design & Build Your Deck" even provides detailed parts and material lists complete with pricing that will determine if you can afford the deck of your dreams. And while permits are not often required when building a deck, DBYD will provide a scale printout that can be taken to the local building department for review and approval. Generally speaking, a permit will be required if the height of the finished deck is equal to or greater than 30 inches above the ground. However, it's always a good idea to ask the local authorities.

For more information on "Design & Build Your Deck," contact the program manufacturer, "Books That Work" at 1-800-242-4546. The anatomy of a deck is relatively simple. As with a home, a deck has a foundation. A deck's foundation typically consists of concrete piers. These piers can be precast or poured-in-place concrete, or a combination of the two.

A wood block is affixed to the top of the piers. This block, usually made of redwood or a treated material, is used to anchor wood framing to the piers. Depending on the height and construction method selected, small posts called underpinning sit atop the piers. The underpinning is attached to the block on top of the pier block either by toenailing (the practice of driving a nail at a forty-five degree angle) or with a prefabricated metal connector.

The same is true of the connection at the top of the underpinning where it meets the support beams, commonly referred to as girders. The girders support the deck framing members called deck joist which are typically spaced approximately 16 inches apart. Joist size and spacing is determined by the material used and distance that the member must span.

The decking is the final layer of material ö and the crowning glory ö in the construction of a deck. The deck boards are laid perpendicular to the deck and the joist (or diagonally) and are attached with nails or screws. Specially coated screws are becoming a more popular connector than nails for a couple of reasons ö they reduce rust and tannin bleed and provide a more reliable connection. This is especially true as the deck boards dry and shrink. Nail heads begin to pop up where screws can be easily countersunk.

One aspect of deck construction that can be a real challenge is sawing a deck board lengthwise to make it fit. This usually occurs with the final piece of decking which is narrower than the standard width. If you have a table saw this can be a simple task. If you don't have access to one or a radial-arm saw, you can still cut it quickly and accurately using a circular saw.

Start by marking the width desired at both ends of the board and drive a small nail in at these points. Hook a chalk line around the nails and snap a chalk line to establish a straight line. This method will work if the deck board is relatively straight. If the board is bowed, use a combination square set at the proper measurement and a pencil to transfer a cut line to the face of the decking.

Once the board has been marked, remove the nails and prepare to cut the material. Your best bet when cutting material is to place the material on top of a couple of saw horses. It is safer, and a whole lot easier on the back.

For a cut using a circular saw that will look as if the board were finely cut with a table saw, attach a straight edge or a guide board to the deck board. The board can be tacked using nails or clamped with furniture clamps.

To determine where the guide board is to be placed, measure the distance from the saw blade to the edge of the saw table. If the board is warped, the guide board can be attached a section at a time or also can be used to straighten the board by placing nails or clamps at various locations along the length.

One final tip. If you decide to use nails to attach the decking, blunt the tip of the nail first. Turn the nail upside down, lay the head against a flat surface and lightly strike the tip with a hammer. Blunting the tip will prevent the wood from splitting when nailing close to the edge.