Several years ago we were returning from an estimate call in an expensive neighborhood in a nearby community. As we headed out of the subdivision we saw a home that appeared to be fire. Smoke was gushing from every gap in the roof from one end of the house to the other.
The house wasn't ablaze it turned out. When we stopped the car to take a closer look we discovered that what we thought was smoke was, in fact, steam.
The phenomenon that we observed that day and haven't seen since was caused by heated air escaping from the roof of the house. The currents of hot air must have been moving at a rapid rate and in great quantity to result in so much steam. It gushed from between the roof shingles so densely that it looked just like smoke.
Imagine how much that unaware homeowner was paying in wasted energy costs. We're not sure that the conditions which existed on that cold winter day could ever be duplicated. But if they could, all you would have to do is go outside, look for steam, and if you saw it rising from your roof, you'd know it was time to insulate the attic.
Since that is, at best, a remote possibility, your best course of action is to make sure now that your attic is properly insulated. Recently, we wrote about how to insulate the floor of your home. We did that because we wanted you to be aware that even though heat rises it can escape through the floor as well. The ceiling and the roof are places where a great deal of heat is lost from the home.
If you have an attic insulated or not bringing the insulation up to a value of R-38 will help. You don't have to remove existing insulation. All you do is add to it. And it doesn't make any difference what type of insulation currently is there, or which type you add. Whether you use batt insulation or blown insulation we like batt insulation because it stays where you put it you should be most concerned about the overall thickness. There are many variables, but as long as the overall thickness of the insulation old and new together is between 10 and 12 inches, everything should be all right.
Adding insulation should be done along with infiltration control (plugging holes between the attic and the living area with an approved foam sealant). The most obvious places are at heating ducts, registers and flues, and plumbing pipes. In an insulated attic, holes for electric wires are a little harder to find, but should also be sealed.
Insulation should be kept clear of ceiling lights. If the light boxes are covered with insulation they can overheat and a fire might result.
Skylight chases that run from the roof to the ceiling should also be insulated. Above all, don't make the mistake of plugging roof vents, low or high.
The attic must "breathe." Hot air trapped in an attic can convert even the most well insulated home into a sweat box on a hot summer day. And a build-up of humidity can occur, which over a long period of time can result in wood rot, mildew and fungus growth.
If you decide on batt insulation for your attic, be sure that you use the backless type. No paper or foil. Backless insulation is readily available.
If you don't have an attic, look into blown-in ceiling insulation and-or foam roofing. In most cases, blown-in ceiling insulation will save you big heating bucks and make the heat in your home feel more even and comfortable. If this isn't possible, look into foam roofing.
Foam roofing is essentially a sprayed-on insulation product that also waterproofs. This is an especially good choice if your roof is in poor condition and needs replacement. We have been told that foam roofing can be sprayed onto, and will adhere to, any surface.
