Replacing cracked or broken windows doesn't have to cost the $75 or more that a repair company would charge. All you need to pay for is the glass and a few installation accessories.

First, remember that when replacing windows you are working with razor-sharp material. WEAR HEAVY GLOVES WITH WRIST GUARDS! Eye protection is also important.

The first step is to remove the broken glass. If it is only cracked and not shattered, apply a layer of duct tape to the inside surface. This will hold everything together while you undertake the removal. You will probably need needle-nose pliers to get out the small pieces wedged in place near the edge of the window frame.

Next, have a piece of glass cut to fit. Each side of the glass should be one-eighth of an inch narrower than the opening. That is, the overall height and width of the glass should be one-quarter of an inch smaller than the opening.

Once the opening is clean and the glass is ready to be installed, apply a one-eighth inch bead of glazier's putty all the way around the opening. The putty should be applied to the surface of the frame that aligns with the inside face of the glass.

Place the pane of glass in the opening and push gently along its edges in order to slightly flatten the putty. This holds the window in place and caulks the inside surface of the glass to the frame of the window. Next, use a putty knife, pliers or a screwdriver to install glazier's points about six inches apart all the way around the opening. They will hold the window in a more permanent fashion.

Once the glazier's points have been installed, use more glazier's putty to seal up the outside connection. Use a putty knife to form the putty into a bevel.

Replacing glass in older metal window frames usually requires disassembly of the frame. Newer metal frames have a trim mold on the exterior that can be removed with a small screwdriver. In both cases the glass will have to be edged with a rubber gasket. Gaskets can also be purchased from a window company.

Q. How can we get rid of wax on floor tile? The tiles are Mexican pavers. They were primed with boiled linseed oil and then waxed. Some of the tiles were not dry when waxed and are mottled. Jacqueline R., Englewood Cliffs, N.J.

A. Interestingly enough the chemical that is used to remove most wax compound is the same chemical that is used to clean linseed oil. We aren't sure what kind of wax is on the tile so we can't guarantee that our fix will work.

Paint thinner (mineral spirits) is the secret ingredient in this case. By the way, if you have wax-finished wood floors, the recommended cleaner is paint thinner.

You'll want to use a nylon scrubbing pad and a lot of "elbow grease". If the grout has been affected, you'll need a wire brush. If not, mask the grout with duct tape before you begin cleaning. Do one tile at a time and remove the masking tape as quickly as possible.

Wipe the area clean with a mild detergent and water.

Usually, if the surface is waxed and it turns white that means that the wax has discolored. However, if the paint thinner doesn't work efflorescence may have developed.

In this case, use a mild, five-percent solution of muratic acid. One part acid to 20 parts water.

In both cases, use gloves and eye protection and make sure that there is plenty of ventilation. These chemicals exude toxic vapors and are flammable.

Q. I read your article about restoring wood's luster. We have just completed remodeling, and the dust was probably the worst part of the project. Our wood furniture definitely needs deep cleaning. The furniture in the living room is walnut and in the bedroom its bird's-eye maple. Would you recommend the linseed oil cleaner? Is paste wax or lemon oil better as a polish?

A. Before tips on cleaning we want to mention plastic throw-away dropcloths. This is how you keep your furniture in good condition during a remodel. Not so much cleaning later.

The linseed oil-turpentine formula is still the best cleaner for fine woods. Three tablespoons of each mixed into a quart of boiling water does the trick.

Paste wax will eventually build up and yellow. Until that time it gives the best finish and doesn't need to be done as frequently as oiling. Whatever you do don't use spray liquids in a can. They contain water and if used over a period of years can damage your furniture.