Recently, we wrote about the importance of keeping chisels, saw blades and drill bits as sharp as possible. The theme was "a well sharpened tool is a safer tool."

One thing we might have emphasized more is how much better a well-sharpened tool works. Force isn't needed. A sharp chisel will glide through even the hardest piece of wood, and a properly sharpened handsaw blade requires less physical energy to yield a straight, smooth cut. Not only is it easier to use a well-sharpened blade or bit, but what you are crafting will look better too.

You may not know it, but your lawnmower blade can use a good sharpening from time to time, as well. If you have a rotary blade it's something that you needn't pay someone else to do for you.

If your lawn has turned white after each of the last couple of mowings, it's time to sharpen your lawnmower blade. The white cast you see on your lawn comes about when the blades of grass are torn by a dull lawnmower blade. The torn fibers at the tip of each blade of grass dry out and turn white. Cleanly cut blades of grass aren't damaged, hold their chlorophyll and remain bright green.

The sharpening process for rotary mowers is simple and shouldn't take more than about forty-five minutes of your time.

First, you'll want to remove the blade from the mower. Holding the blade in one hand, use a wrench to loosen the nut that holds the blade in place. You will have to turn the nut counterclockwise to loosen it. Some mowers have holes that align in the blade-housing and the blade. By inserting a screwdriver shaft into both these holes at the same time the blade will be held in place freeing both of your hands, and making it easier for you to loosen the blade-retaining nut.

Note: It's always toughest the first time. If you have never removed the blade before, loosening the nut may be a bit difficult. A cutting oil lubricant such as WD-40 or Liquid Wrench could be helpful. Use the cutting oil freely at the threaded portion of the shaft that holds the blade in place. You might try using a larger-than-normal wrench. Tapping the end of the wrench handle with a hammer also might help loosen the nut.

Once the blade is off, you can use a hand file, a grinding stone attached to an electric drill or a bench grinder to sharpen the blade.

If you decide to use either of the electric alternatives, be sure not to let the grinding stone cause the blade to heat up. Keep a large bucket of cold water close by. Frequently dip the blade into the water to keep it cool. Overheating the blade will remove its temper, and it won't hold a sharp edge for as long as before.

Once the blade has been sharpened, test its balance by inserting a screwdriver, a nail or a pocket knife in the hole in the center of the blade. Grind off one side of the blade or the other to make sure that it is in balance. A blade that is out of balance could do severe damage to the motor.

Before you reverse the removal procedure and reinstall the blade, make sure to wipe it completely dry and rub it down with a coat of machine oil. This will help to retard rust.

The result should be the greenest cut you've had in a long while.