Have you ever thought about installing a French door or a pair of French doors where a window exists? Doing so can make for easy access to your yard, add light to the room and improve ventilation.
Choose a door or a pair of doors with a width equal to or slightly smaller than the width of the existing window. The structural support member or "header" above the opening thus will not have to be changed.
Due to the popularity of this conversion, most home-improvement centers keep a supply of wood French doors and related installation materials in stock. There are also door and millwork shops that can order virtually any wood and glass configuration you might want.
While appearance is a consideration, integrity and lasting quality is important when making your choice of doors. We believe that a little more money invested up front will ultimately result in savings on repairs and maintenance.
Pine and fir are the most popular choices in French doors. Both will take stain and paint well. Others like oak, walnut and mahogany are less common, but available.
Some manufacturers offer special factory-painted exterior finishes or aluminum or vinyl-clad exteriors for reduced maintenance and longer life. These will add to the price but may be worth the additional 10 to 25 percent.
The glass will have more to do with the overall appearance than any other element. The number of "lites" or panes can range from just one to as many as fifteen per door. Most doors contain insulated or double-paned glass for maximum energy efficiency.
For those who like the look of more than one lite, but are put off by the prospect of washing them individually, there are "applied grids." These grids or muntons can be removed, eliminating the need to clean a pane at a time. The removable grid also makes painting considerably easier.
Whenever possible the doors should be purchased pre-hung. The doors are hinged and hung in a pre-assembled jamb. The jamb should come complete with a threshold and weather-stripping. The doors should also be bored and mortised for the lockset. Purchase the lockset at the same time as the doors so that your home will be secure once the doors have been installed. The lockset trim will need to be removed when you finish the door.
Get started by moving furniture aside to avoid damage. Take down paintings, photos and other wall hangings in the area that could be affected by vibration from banging. Use plastic drop cloths or old sheets to protect furniture and floor coverings from dust and debris.
Working from the interior, use a hammer and a pry bar to remove the window sill, if one exists. Next, using a level, draw a plumb line from the right side of the window opening to the floor. Do the same for the left side. Using a razor knife, cut along the plumb lines and remove the drywall below the window and between the lines.
Next, working from the exterior, expose the nailing flange of the window by removing the wood trim that surrounds it. Remove all of the nails securing the window with a nail puller and a hammer. After all of the nails have been pulled, carefully remove the window. Using a reciprocating saw, cut the siding along the trimmer stud from the bottom of the window opening to the floor below. Repeat the process at the opposite side.
Remove the framing and siding below the window opening and any drywall that wraps the opening at the sides or at the bottom of the header. Use the reciprocating saw, pry bar, nail puller and hammer as needed.
If an electrical outlet exists below the window or if electrical wires are discovered in the wall during demolition, consult an electrician. Chances are the wires will need to be rerouted either above or below the opening. Also, in some areas building code requires an exterior light at all exterior doors. Chances are good that some electrical work will be required.
Before placing the door or doors in the opening, apply a tube of high-quality exterior-grade latex caulk at the base of the opening where the threshold will be placed. This will make for a more waterproof seal. Working from the exterior with a helper, place the door or doors in the bottom of the opening and tilt upright until plumb in the opening. Use a pry bar to shift the door(s) until centered in the opening. Install opposing shim shingles snugly between the jamb and the trimmer stud behind each hinge. Use a level to check that the door is plumb and square, and adjust the shim shingles accordingly. Drive a 16d galvanized nail through the shims and into the framing at the center of the jamb. Use a hinge pin to set the nails so that they can be concealed with spackling.
Once the door has been secured in the opening, install new wood trim at the exterior. Caulk the inside face of the trim before applying it. All exterior connections should be caulked prior to painting. Finish the work at the exterior by installing a concrete or wood step, if necessary. Install the lockset, the light fixture and finish the door and trim.
Prior to installing the casing around the interior of the jamb, insert some spray polyurethane foam between the jamb and the framing. The foam will expand, dry hard and help significantly in cutting down on energy loss. Complete the job by installing the interior casing, the switch for the exterior light and finishing the door(s) and trim.
