You may know it as Formica or Wilsonart, but the generic name is plastic laminate. It is laminated onto a solid surface to give it strength and support.

Common plastic laminate is nothing more than a very thin piece of plastic laminated onto several thin pieces of resin-coated paper. A heating process is used to bond the paper and plastic, and what results is a somewhat flexible water-proof material that has an any number of practical uses.

Not all plastic laminates are alike even when purchased from the same manufacturer. For flexibility, fewer layers of paper are used in the manufacturing process. These more flexible laminates are recommended for use on vertical surfaces such as doors and sides of cabinets and to surround curved surfaces such as round columns or pedestals. For greater resistance to impact, extra layers of paper are used. These stronger laminates are made for use on horizontal surfaces such as desk tops and kitchen counters.

The thinner, more flexible materials are less expensive than the heavier laminates, but don't hold up well when used on horizontal surfaces. It is important for you to be sure that you are getting the right material for the job.

Modern plastic laminate material is reasonably heat resistant, available in a wide range of colors and surface textures and isn't difficult for the do-it-yourselfer to work with. Try it out on an old desk top:

First, use an electric sander with 50 to 80-grit sandpaper to rough the existing top and edge surfaces. After making sure that the sanded surfaces are completely clean, spray or brush on an even coat of contact cement. Make sure to apply the contact cement in accordance with the instructions on the can. Attempting to apply more contact cement to missed areas before the first coat has dried can cause lumping.

Next, use a jig-saw with the finest-tooth blade that you can buy to cut strips for the edge of the top. It isn't important that the cuts be straight. As a matter of fact they can be sloppy as long as they are cut wider than the edges that they will be applied to. If the edge to be covered is an inch wide, cut the strips an inch and a half to two inches wide. Once the strips are cut, you then can cut the piece for the top. It also should be larger than the surface to be covered. An inch or two of waste on all four sides should do it.

The next step is to apply a coat of contact cement to the back of all five pieces. Wait a half hour before attempting to apply the laminate. If the contact cement isn't dry, you might wind up with a mess. Apply two edge pieces (opposite ends or sides whichever you prefer to start with), then use a router with a laminate-edging bit to trim the laminate at the top, bottom and ends. Follow the same procedure at the remaining two edges. In all instances the laminate material MUST protrude beyond the area to be covered when it is applied. The trick is to use the router to cut through the excess laminate. Using a router, even the most amateur do-it-yourselfer can achieve professional results. Although you may have to purchase the bit, the router can be rented.

The last step is to apply the top and rout the edges. This is a project that can be done in a few hours for under $90 dollars to any flat-topped square-edged piece of furniture in your home.