Adding sculptured wood trim such as crown molding, door casing and baseboard can add a rich look to your home. And if you do-it-yourself the cost can be minimal.

Crown molding is the sculptured wood trim that is normally applied to the wall at or near the point where the walls meet the ceiling. In wide widths it can be difficult to install because exact cuts must be made to insure clean connections at inside and outside corners. The positive impact that crown molding can have on the appearance of a room is unbelievable. A light colored ceiling, crown molding finished to match the door trim and low-key wallpaper from there down are as beautiful a combination today as they were over a hundred years ago. Victorian, traditional or contemporary crown mold adds a luxurious look.

What makes the installation of crown mold easiest is the right tool. And the right tool in this case is an electric miter saw. The saw must be large enough to cut completely through the molding at a 45-degree angle. For example, a 14-inch miter saw is required to cut 5 inch crown molding. And a 10-inch saw is used for 3 inch molding. The forty-dollar saw-rental fee can save hundreds of dollars in grief. Professional looking cuts are at best difficult to do with a hand-miter or coping saw.

Place the crown molding into the electric miter bottom-edge up. Besides producing the cut at the proper angle, doing so forces the saw blade to cut into the face of the molding resulting in reduced chance of chipping at the face of the cut.

Place a small piece of molding onto the saw table insuring that the two back surfaces of the molding are square with the two saw table surfaces. Then, use a pencil to mark a line onto the base and back of the saw table along both edges of the molding (top and bottom). The pencil marks are used as guides to insure that each piece to be cut is placed into the saw in exactly the same position. Make sure to purchase high quality molding. Warped or twisted material is almost impossible to cut properly.

The next step is to prepare the walls for installation.

First, use a measuring tape and a straight edge to draw a pencil line on the wall where the base of the crown mold will be. A second line can be drawn onto the ceiling where the top edge will connect, but is not absolutely necessary. It is also wise to locate and mark the wall studs and ceiling framing. The damage that is done by penetrating the wallboard to find these wood members can be done in the area to be covered by the molding. A very light pencil mark can be made outside the area to be covered by the molding for quick easy attachment.

QUESTION #1 - COLUMN #9 Q. I own a home that was built in about 1954. It has four-inch square aluminum tiles on the walls of the bathroom and kitchen. Are these tiles still being made? Also, who makes them? What kind of adhesive is used to glue them to the wall? -Shannon A., Charlottesville, VA.

A. Aluminum tile was extremely popular in the 1940's and 1950's with the advent in popularity of the then "new wonder metal". We're surprised they didn't make diapers out of the stuff. Who knows, maybe they tried.

We made a call to the Tile Heritage Foundation (THF), the non-profit tile research group in Healdsburg, CA, and spoke with Sheila Menzies who recently began researching the history of aluminum tiles. Sheila tells us that the product was once manufactured by a company in Fresno, CA. She asked us to send her a copy of your letter and advised us that when her research was complete she would forward her findings to us. Although the foundation has a few pieces of aluminum tile, they are being kept for archival purposes and aren't available for sale.

The Tile Heritage Foundation not only does research on tile for historical purposes, but also has a list of companies that warehouse new, outdated tile. They just might be able to help you find what you're looking for. You can call them at (707) 431-TILE. And good luck!

QUESTION #2 - COLUMN #9 Q. I am writing to you in hopes of resolving a problem that I have been faced with for the past few months. I do hope you will be able to respond by mail since the overseas delivery of my newspaper is not always dependable.

I am leasing a split-level house in West Germany that was built in 1985. The kitchen is on the ground floor (above the basement) and has large square "tiles" for flooring. In recent months, the tiles have started to come unglued. I believe that the tiles are some type of PVC flooring but I am not positive. The edges of the tile are beginning to curl up. I have looked under the tile and found that the adhesive used in installation is no longer bonding the tile to the floor. Also, gaps have occurred at the edges of some of the tiles (up to an eighth of an inch).

I don't know whether this would have any bearing on the problem but this kitchen sits above an unheated basement. The basement room does have a high level of humidity because of the heating system that is located there.

Here in Germany, landlords do not pay for house repairs - tenants do. And I am really frustrated. Help! -Sandra C., APO, NY

A. We'll call this one "The Case of the Incredible Shrinking (and Curling) Floor". To coin a phrase - you hit the nail right on the head - a cold basement with a hot furnace and we're willing to bet that there's no floor insulation either.

First, it will be important to eliminate the real cause of the damage to prevent a recurrence once the floor tiles have been repaired. This is done by reducing the transmission of moist air that is currently traveling from the basement to the kitchen via the floor. All you have to do is fill the basement-ceiling cavity (below the kitchen floor) with spun glass insulation. Use the paper-backed type and make sure the paper side is placed up toward the kitchen. Both the insulation and its backing will absorb a substantial amount of the moisture giving natural air circulation a chance to evaporate the moisture at the insulation level instead of the finish floor covering level. Also, the addition of the insulation will make that area above a more comfortable and energy efficient place to live. Insulation netting is stapled to the floor-framing members (below the insulation) to hold the material in place.

To repair the curling tiles they must be made soft and pliable. Heating them does this. Although a hair dryer does work, we prefer to use a clothes iron to a bath towel. Once the tile is soft, reaffix the curled edges to the floor with a generous portion of Dap Tub and Tile Caulk (a great all purpose glue). Once the edges have been rejoined, wipe off the excess adhesive with a damp towel. Finally, cover the repaired seam with wax paper and a heavy object to hold everything in place. The wax paper will prevent the heavy object from sticking to the glued seam.

Our guess is the tiles that have an eighth-inch gap have shrunk. Under the conditions mentioned we aren't surprised. Here, the tiles will have to be replaced. Removing them will be easier if they are heated first. However, if replacement tiles aren't available, or too expensive, then fill the joint with ceramic tile grout (in a matching color). This will keep food and debris from getting into the joints, and help to hide the unsightly gap.

Germany or not, a landlord that isn't willing to pay for sensible repairs that improve the life, value and condition of the property is, in our opinion, a slum-lord. Move - and stick them with an empty property. Remember good old American supply vs. demand.