When it comes to a toilet, if water is anywhere but in the tank or the bowl it's reason for concern. Water at the base of a toilet can be caused by a hairline crack in the tank or bowl; a "sweating" tank due to condensation; a leaking supply water supply (valve, hose or connections; leaks where the tank connects to the bowl or a faulty wax ring. The wax ring is used as a water seal between the discharge port at the underside of the toilet and the toilet flange connected to the sewer pipe. Over time the wax ring can become compressed -- especially if the toilet is not securely anchored to the toilet flange -- and a leak results.
Use a few drops of food coloring in the tank and bowl to determine if the toilet is cracked. If the dye test reveals a crack, replace the tank or the entire toilet. If the leak is confined to the area immediately around the base of the bowl, chances are good that a new wax ring is needed. You'll need to remove the toilet in order to replace the wax ring.
Begin this project by arming yourself with the required tools: an open-ended wrench (1/4" or 3/8"), a crescent wrench, a pair of pliers, a screwdriver, and a hacksaw. Start by turning off the water supply to the toilet. Simply turn the little valve that is located below and behind the toilet clockwise until it stops. Flush the toilet and remove any water that may remain in the tank or bowl with a small cup and a sponge. Once all of the water has been removed disconnect the water supply line at the base of the tank. This can be achieved by backing off the nut in a counterclockwise direction.
The next step is to unfasten the toilet from the floor. Most residential toilets are anchored to the floor with a couple of fasteners called closet bolts. You may even find that your toilet has four of these devices. They are cleverly concealed with either porcelain or plastic caps provided by the manufacturer. A toilet is rarely anchored to the floor -- in most cases it is bolted to the "toilet flange." Pry the closet bolt caps off with a screwdriver and remove the nuts that remain with an open-ended wrench turning counterclockwise. Now comes the fun part -- removing the toilet. We suggest that you have one other person help you lift the toilet and carry it out because it's as awkward as it is heavy.
Don't be alarmed by the gooey mess that may appear on the floor where the toilet once sat. What remains is some of the wax ring. Remove any of the wax that remains with a putty knife. Chances for achieving a new leak-proof seal will be especially good if you take care in cleaning up the surface to accept the new wax ring.
With the toilet lying on its side, affix the new wax ring to the exhaust port of the toilet with the plastic throat facing away from the toilet. It's a good time to replace the old and rusted closet bolts with news ones. Attach the new closet bolts to the closet flange in an upright position just as you found the old ones.
Next, pick the toilet up and, without allowing the bottom to touch the floor, align the holes in the base of the toilet with the closet bolts and gently lower it until it completely seats. Install the nuts onto the closet bolts being careful not to tighten them too tight; this could result in a broken toilet! Then place the bolt caps over the nuts, and if the bolt caps don't properly seat chances are that the bolts are too long. Shorten the bolts by cutting off the excess with a hacksaw. Reattach the water supply line to the tank with the new nut and washer provided with the toilet and turn the water on.
